Regency Clothing
The era spanning from the 1790s to the 1820s saw an emphasis on elegance and simplicity which was motivated by the democratic ideals of the French Republic but which looked back to classical Greece and Rome for its fashion inspiration. Waists were high, the emphasis was vertical and lightweight white fabrics were at the height of fashions which were so simple that the lady of the time often wore only three garments; a chemise, a corset and a gown! This was an incredible contrast to the preceding and succeeding periods with their horizontal emphases, multiple layers and often heavy fabrics.
Chemise:
The chemise was the only undergarment popular during the era. It was simply constructed of linen or cotton (usually white) and was much like some lightweight modern nightgowns.
Corset:
The corset was worn over the chemise, was typically made of linen, laced in the back, was “boned” for firmness and had a long wooden or whalebone busk in the front to create the “lift and separate” support necessary for Regency fashions. A lady wearing a proper Regency style corset will likely have flawless posture.
Dress (Gown):
The dress was at least ankle length and had a very high “empire” waist. Some scooped quite low in the bodice while others were very moderate. Some had trains in the rear which were pinned up while dancing. The sleeves could be short or wrist length as each style was popular at different times. The fabric was usually light in color with solid white being the favorite of the era. Small patterns and vertical stripes were also used. Good fabric choices would be lightweight such as cotton batiste, lightweight cotton muslin or a silk that isn’t stiff but has a good “drape” to it. Sometimes a very light semi-transparent overdress was worn on top of the main article. White cotton voile or chiffon might be good fabrics for such an option. Trim could be in the form of piping, metallic braid or ribbon.
Spencer Jacket:
The Spencer Jacket was an item peculiar to the Regency period which went well with the empire waist gown. It was very fitted, had either a standing or flat collar and could have short or long sleeves. The bottom of the jacket conformed to the waist of the gown. Spencer Jackets were commonly made of linen though wool, cotton or silk could be used.
Stockings:
Stockings were often silk or cotton and came up to thigh level.
Shoes:
Low shoes similar to modern lace-up ballet slippers were used as were leather, lace-up shoes with a heel.
Hats and Bonnets:
The poke bonnet was the very popular, signature headwear for ladies of the period. It was long and scoop shaped, sometimes compared unfavorably to a coal scuttle in appearance. Critics of the era’s fashions (often older folks who longed for the “good old days” of the 18th century) represented women in both satire and cartoon as running about in their underwear (lightweight gowns) with comically long headwear (poke bonnets) hiding their faces!
Straw “cartwheel” hats, popular during the previous era, were still known and would have a resurgence in popularity in the decades to come. Turbans and ostrich feathers were quite in vogue for a time, particularly for formal occasions, as were diadems.
Hair:
Ladies’ hair was quite fashionable when long and piled high on the head in a classically inspired style with hanging wisps, curly bangs and ringlets about the face.
Accessories:
Small purses which shut by means of a drawstring were popular. Jewelry was worn but for most women tended to be less ostentatious than that of the 18th century. For example, a small gold, silver or pewter cross on a short, simple chain worn around the neck was considered very tasteful and was the height of fashion during the first two decades of the 19th century. In fact, Jane Austen herself wore just such an item.
If you would like to see some pictures of Regency era clothing. Please click the link below to see some museum pieces.
Please Note: This article is the property of Scott Hinkle and should not be reproduced in part or in whole without the written consent of the author.
Fabrics Used in Regency Garments
COTTON - Printed cottons were block-printed by hand in the 1790s, with most designs being very complex florals. At the turn of the century the designs started becoming less complex, often featuring just one element of a pattern, and the colours became more subdued and dark.
With the advent of the roller-printer came the popularity of vertical designs, and in the teens and early twenties fabrics were also printed on the diagonal. As interest moved away from classical simplicity so the designs got bigger and dresses started featuring very detailed trims. During the twenties "turkey red" designs also became very popular.
MUSLIN - Many dresses that sought to capture the classical look were made from white and off-white muslins, many of which featured a woven pattern. One of the more popular designs featured a small dot that was either embroidered or woven into the fabric. Other popular designs included a woven check or embroidered eyelet.
SILK - Silks provided women of the later Regency an opportunity to wear stronger colours. Softer silks were used, one dress dated 1806-10 was made of "fine soft twilled silk".
SATIN - Silk satin provided another opportunity to use a shiny fabric for evening dress. Creams, whites and other colours were used, and the fabric worked well gathered at the back of dresses. Silk satin was also used for outerwear, as evidenced by a "delicate cream satin pelisse and bonnet" in the collection of Nancy Bradfield. Embroidered net or gauze was increasingly used over satin ballgowns from about 1815, and was gathered with the fabric at the back.
Regency Hairstyles
By the early 1800s, the powdered wigs of the Georgian era were forever relegated from fashion, as men of the period began wearing their hair short and natural. During the Regency era, women's clothing as well as hairstyles were modeled after Greek and Roman styles. Women wore their hair up and fastened their buns with ornamental combs, diadems, bonnets and silk ribbons. They parted their hair in the shape of T, V, Y and U's. Regency girls often curled their hair at the front to crown their faces with soft ringlets. Ladies also wore bonnets, hats or turbans.
To achieve a Regency hairstyle, fasten your hair in a bun or braided bun, leaving enough hair around your forehead and sides of your face. Using a thin curling iron, curl the hair around your face in soft tendrils. This is an easy, upswept style that is perfect for formal occasions!
The Regency Up-Do
I definitely recommend that when you begin this hairstyle do that your hair slightly damp, since it holds curls better and is easier to work with. If you have thin, fine or "wispy flyaway hair", I recommend either a hair gel, light-weight or light mousse to keep your hair in place. Hair wax will also work and it will keep your hair in place the entire day. If you are at an event, I would recommend placing your hair in pin-curls the night before and sleep in them.
You do not have to be a professionally hairstylist to pull off this up-do. If you can do a French-Twist, you can do this hairstyle. First, you want to pull your hair into a ponytail at the neck. Begin to twist it as you would a French-Twist, secure it at the bottom, middle and top with bobby pins. Leave any hair that is leftover alone for now. Now what you think looks like a disaster on the top of your head really isn't, it is just a mess waiting to be arranged. Secure the leftover curls/hair with bobby pins on the top and arrange them in a manner that is artistic and neat. The way you create the curls on the top is how you arrange your bobby pins and that is a personal feel. Once you do this hairstyle once, it will not take you long when you do it again. Very easy hairstyle to do and to keep up with. If the sides of your hair are short and do not fit in the ponytail, you may use pincurls or a curling iron(if you are at home) to make the side curls. Remember, the Regency hairstyle based itself in the Greek and Roman styles of old.
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