Victorian Ladies' Parasols



For wealthy women throughout Europe and America, parasols were considered an essential part of fashion. They were as much a part of a well-dressed lady's outfit as were her gloves, hat, shoes, and stockings. Parasols originated in the East Indies some 3,000 years ago. The first to appear in North America were seen around 1740, but by the mid-1800s, even middle class and poorer women owned at least two--one in black silk and another in white.

The word "parasol" means literally, "for sun" in Spanish, and the chief purpose of the 19th century parasol was in fact to shade and protect the fair complexion of Victorian ladies. Women of the 19th century went to great lengths to keep their skin smooth and white as possible. This compulsion went beyond a concern for beauty. To be so fair-complected showed the world that a woman was a lady, and she did not have to work our doors in the sun, the way a "common" woman had to. For a time, bonnets helped to protect a lady's delicate skin from the sun's rays, but by the 1860s, fashion made a change--smaller hats came into style. The once-popular and more protective bonnet was now viewed as a frumpish accessory for matrons and elderly women. Therefore, it became fashionable to carry parasols in order to protect the delicate soft complexion of a Victorian Lady.

Eventually, the parasol became a status symbol. Though the difference between a parasol and an umbrella may seem to be of little importance today, they were quite significant and absolutely unquestionable in the circles of Victorian Society. Victorian fashion dictated that a lady never be caught in the rain. Umbrellas were carried by men to protect a lady as he walked her from the front door to the enclosed carriage and vice-sersa. A woman who carried an umbrella was publicly conceding that she could not afford to own or hire a carriage for transportation in the rain. However, a woman who carried a parasol was most assuredly a lady. She carried her parasol in sunny weather, not rainy, and as it was always important for a lady to convey her unquestionable status and class, when she rode in her carriage, the convertible top would be down so as to be sure that she and her parasol were clearly visible to all.

Parasols, while indeed serving a practical purpose, were associated with the greatest of femininity and romance. Like the fan, parasols were an intrinsic part of the subtle art of flirtation. With practice, a felicitous lady could utilize her parasol to send any number of discreet messages. She could emphasize her dazzling eyes and her demure smile, or she could sheepishly gesture the change of her mood or thoughts. A skilled practioner could conceal from her chapperone the direction of her gaze, and even camouflage or disguise her imperfections. Popular dainty parasols were made of pleated chiffon, silk, feathers and lace, with lovely handles of carved mother-of-pearl, ivory, or handpainted porcelain, gold, silver, cloissone, and exotic woods. Some even had handles with inlaid precious stones. Fashionable lengths for parasols started out short(about 28 inches) in the early years (pre-1870). They grew longer as the years progressed, reaching their longest(between 31-40 inches) from the 1880s on. Other varieties of parasols included those appearing about 1865, when hoop skirts were fashionable but cumbersome. These parasols had slender sticks which were jointed and could be folded in half. This was particularly sensible and helpful for women wearing the burdensome styles of time, when handling a parasol became a skill requiring a dextrous technique. Another choice was the "tilting parasol", which actually dates back to the 18th century. The sticks were hinged to allow the shade to be angled and adjusted. More popular, however, was the en-tout-cas, which had a very short stick of only 18 inches, and hung from a chantelaine.

The ribs of parasols were often made from expensive bone(usually whalebone, which was most frequently used in corsets), although cane and whalebone ribs were seldom seen after the 1870s. All early parasols were expensive luxuries, even those of the 18th century, which were typically made of paper. However, by the 19th century, parasols had become such a mandatory item in a lady's wardrobe that their prices became more affordable, especially when less-expensive metal ribs became a common substitute for the bone.(Metal ribs were first manufactured in 1851). Still, in a time when a dollar equalled about 20 of today's parasols were by far not cheap! In the 1880s, even a plain parasol with metal ribs and no extra trimming of any kind would have cost between $8 and $10. Because, they were so expensive and extravagant, most mail-order, as well as many famous department store--catalogs did not feature parasols. Also, parasols changed with fashion, so often they were re-covered when they wore out, or as style dictated. Many fashion magazines provided tips on recovering them, but most women preferred to have this done professionally. Nevertheless, Victorian women carried parasols and those who were truly punctilious carried a different one for each outfit.

Enchanting parasols became one of the most prevelant gifts for a gentlemen to give his sweetheart during the 19th century. Because of their elegance, extravagance, and expense, it would have been a grave impropriety for a gentlemen to give a parasol to a young lady for whom his intentions were ot serious, and in return, a proper and decorous young lady would not have accepted such a gift unless she intended to receive the gentleman, as well. Therefore, it became conventional for a groom to give to his bride a parasol as part of his wedding gift to her. In fact, one of the most renowned parasols given in this way during the 19th century was the gift given to Bettina Rothschild by her fiance. While he actually have her a total of 18 parasols, there was one in particular that stood out amongst society. It was made of pastel-pink silk, covered with white gauze and lace, and the tips were covered with precious emeralds. The handle was jade, and also lavishly adorned with emeralds, as was the ring that slipped over the parasol to close it tightly.

Eventually, however, the Victorian era came to an end, and with it, the femininity and charm of the flirtatious parasol. There was now a new social and fashion statement. The glamour and romance of parasols no longer seemed necessary as the next phase of fashion called for a looser fit, a straighter waist, and a shorter length. By the 1920s, flappers were the mode, and as hemlines rose, parasols disappeared. During this decade it became no longer stylish to have a fair complexion, but rather, tanned skin became the look to strive for. As a status symbol, having a beautiful golden tan indicated that a woman did not have to work, and that she could spend her days out-of-doors enjoying the sun, or that she could lounge by the pool or at the beach all the day. Like other aspects of the Victorian era, these lovely and charming accessories were ultimately stored away in trunks in the attic, along with other "old-fashioned" items from the era, such as corsets, high-button shoes, crinolines and pantaloons--hopefully only to be discovered and enjoyed generations later by a new wave of "Victorians" -- that is, those of us who are fascinated by, and love to imagine what it was like to have lived in the enchanting and elegant "Victorian Era".

**This article was written & is copyrighted to Dawn Aiello. It is used with Ms. Aiello's permission.

Her website is: Victorian Lace ~ Victorian Lifestyles: The Victorian Era***



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Updated: December 10, 2006

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