Afternoon Tea:
A Victorian Tradition

 

Accordingly, in 2737 B.C., Emperor Shen Nong, was visiting a distant region of his realm and he and his court stopped to rest along the roadside. The servants began to boil water, as required for hygienic purposes, for all to drink. By chance, dried leaves from nearby were said to have fallen into the boiling water, creating a brownish liquid. When the emperor tasted it and found it to have an interesting, refreshing flavor, they made more. According to the legend, this is the beginning of tea drinking!

The first European to personally encounter tea and write about it was the Portuguese Jesuit Father Jasper de Cruz in 1560 A.D., when he was a missionary. After the introduction of tea into Portugal, they shipped tea to Lisbon; and Dutch ships transported it to France, Holland and the Baltic countries. Due to the cost of shipping tea, at that time, it would cost over $100 per pound! This made it the domain of the wealthy. But, by 1675, it was less expensive and available in the food shops throughout Holland and France. Tea drinking became part of the way of life. Dutch inns provided the first restaurant service of tea. Tavern owners furnished hot portable tea sets to their guests at their garden tables. Into the 1700's France and Holland led Europe in the use of tea.

The first samples of tea reached England between 1652 and 1654, and it became popular enough to replace ale as England's national drink. As in Holland, it was the nobility that gave tea its stamp of approval. Both King Charles ll and his wife, the Portuguese Infanta Catherine de Braganza were both tea drinkers. And, although tea prices were kept fairly high, tea mania swept through England just as it had the other countries.

Before the introduction of tea into Britain, breakfast and dinner were the two meals that were commonly served. The Clergy was convinced it must be a sin since it came from a heathen country. Doctors opinioned it was undoubtedly unhealthy, which gave the government an excuse to tax it to the tune of 5 shillings a pound on dry leaf in 1689, causing prices to soar. Brewers were afraid it would replace ale as a breakfast drink.

Thomas Twining learnt about the new Oriental beverages from an East India Company merchant. In 1706 he bought Tom’s Coffee House off London’s Strand, and applied his new-found knowledge to his own business. By the time Thomas Twining became a Freeman of the City of London, he was employed by a wealthy East India Company merchant called Thomas D’Aeth. At that time, the East India Company were importing many exotic new products from around the world, including tea.

Thomas was fascinated by the possibilities of the new drinks. He learned well and quickly, and by 1706 knew enough to strike out on his own

They were now a popular feature of London life. Men – but never women – of all classes would gather there to drink, to gossip, and to do business. Coffee shops gathered a loyal clientele by specialising in particular products or by encouraging customers with common interests. Poets, for instance, would go to one establishment; army officers, to another. In 1717, Mr. Twining opened an exclusive teahouse for women. But even with this teahouse opening, it was still for the wealthy and the fashionable.

But before long, Anna, the Duchess of Bedford, had adopted the European tea service format and invited friends to join her in an afternoon meal. The menu centered around small cakes, sandwiches, assorted sweets and, of course, tea. This time with friends proved so popular that soon she would send friends invitation to her London home for Tea Time and a walk in the fields. This practice was copied by other hostesses and serving tea became commonplace for almost all families in England. Tea was made in a heated silver pot and brought to the guests and was served in the finest porcelain from China. The food, would includ crumpets, wafer thin crust less sandwiches and shrimp and fish pates, was also served on the fine china. This tradition was very social and a very pleasant experience for those who attended.

Tea was forbiden to the young Princess Victoria. Her governess refused her to take tea at all. When she became Queen in 1837, one of the first things she did was to order a cup of tea.

As the century progressed, afternoon tea became increasingly elaborate. By the 1880s, ladies were changing into long tea gowns for the occasion and appetites were sharpened by the customary afternoon drive in a carriage. Tea service had also kept pace with side plates, bread and butter plates, cake stands and every conceivable accompaniment advancing across the drawing room. By Edwardian times, the smart hour for afternoon tea was five o'clock or later. Etiquette books full of anxious advice appeared, with warnings like 'those who take sugar in their tea are advised to propel the spoon with a minimum of effort and to remove it without fail before raising the cup'. When friends meet unexpectedly, they exchange news over tea. Afternoon tea is still a graceful event, and brings people together for a brief hour of pleasure and refreshment everyday.

Tea Gardens
Taken from the Dutch tavern garden teas, the English enhanced the idea of Tea Gardens. On private grounds, ladies and gentlemen took their tea outdoors and were entertained by orchestras, flowered walkways, bowling greens, concerts, games and other lavish elements. In public tea gardens, women were allowed to mix freely for the first time without social criticism; and British society and the middle classes also gathered freely, thus cutting across lines of class and birth.

America and The Tea Tradition
It was not until 1690 A.D. that tea was available for sale in America. Tea Gardens were first opened in New York City and were centered around natural springs and later manmade springs. The most famous of these Tea Springs was at Roosevelt and Chatham Streets, which later became Park Row Street.

By 1720 A.D., tea was a special favourite of colonial women. Noteworthy, the tea trade was based in Boston, New York and Philadelphia, which became future centers of American rebellion because the imported British tea was heavily taxed. Thomas Twinings's son Daniel, who took the business over when his father died, began to export tea from England to the United States. His ledgers show that in 1749, Twinings tea was being sold to America. The Governor of Boston was a customer.

Contraband tea was smuggled into the colonies from ports far away and herbal teas were used from the American Indian. Tea companies who were angered by the fact that they saw their profits diminish and they pressured parliament to take action. In June, 1767, the tea tax was introduced and ignited the flames of anger among the colonists. England counted on the passion for tea among the women colonists to help subside the rage but it did not work. The women refused to buy English tea until their rights and those of their merchant husbands were restored, and the unjust taxes levied were brought into perspective. As anger raged and events deteriorated, the men of Boston, dressed as Indians gathered and threw hundreds of pounds of British tea into the Boston Harbor. Hence, the name Boston Tea Party! Later, America stabilized her government, strengthened her borders and tea interests.

The Governor’s tea seems to have got through without mishap. When, a few years later, American patriots dumped English tea in Boston harbour, a distinguished writer noted: “…it was not Twinings tea the Boston rebels tossed into the sea.”

Tea Rooms, Tea Courts and Tea Dances
Beginning in the late 1880's, in America and England, fine hotels began to offer tea service in Tea Rooms and Tea Courts. Victorian ladies and their gentlemen would meet in the late afternoon for tea and conversation. Many of these tea services became so well known that certain hotels like The Ritz in Boston and The Plaza in New York were noted for them, among other special services.

By the year 1910, other excellent hotels began to host Tea Dances in the afternoon, as dancing in America and England became the craze. Here again this highlighted the social aspect, it was a place where young men and women could meet.

A proper tea was a gathering of friends with light refreshments and chat. Later the working and farming communties adopted the afternoon tea, but incorporated more hearty foods and the addition of meat dishes. They called this High Tea, so called because it was taken at a high dining table instead of lower small tables found in a parlor or boudoir.

Below are exerpts from The Home Manual: Everybody's Guide in Social, Domestic, and Business Life, 1889

These are among the most informal entertainments given, and the difference between a large afternoon tea and an afternoon reception is little more than the name, although the latter is perhaps a shade more formal.

The day and hour of an afternoon tea may be written on a visiting card. For an afternoon reception, an "At Home" card is used.

Only simple refreshments should be served at an afternoon tea. Thin slices of bread and butter, sandwiches, fancy biscuit or cake, tea, coffee, or chocolate, ice-cream, and bullion are offered. Punch and lemonade- but no wine of any kink- may be added if desired; and also salted almonds, cakes, candies, and other dainty trifles.

The hostess should shake hands with her guests and recieve them cordially; any formality is out of place on an informal occasion. If the number of guests is small, the hostess should walk about the room, talking with her visitors; if large, she should remain near the door, and have the aid of other ladies, who should entertain the guests, ask them to take refreshments, and make introductions, when necessary.

At a large and elegant afternoon reception, the windows may be darkened, the gas light, and musicians employed, if the hostess desires.

 

Victorian Era Clothing
Victorian Etiquette for the Hostess
Victorian Etiquette for Balls
Victorian Sewing Room
Victorian Era Recipes
Period Campfire Cooking
The Language of Flowers
Fabrics of the Victorian Era
The Language of the Fan
The Victorian Bath
Victorian Parlour Games
The Art of Letter Writing
Victorian Luncheons & Picnics
Dressing a Victorian Child
Victorian Romance & Relationships
Victorian Weddings
Victorian Etiquette
Victorian Etiquette for Visiting
Victorian Etiquette for Church
Victorian Era home
Home






 








"Jesu, Joy of Man's Desiring"
by Johann Sebastian Bach

Updated: July 22, 2007


©Ladies of Reenacting, 2003-2007
All Rights Reserved.