What in the world is fustian? or blonde lace? or a Vandyked edge? or nankeen?

The vocabulary of early nineteenth century fashion is admittedly obscure in many respects, but with a bit of study, you'll know a pelisse from a pelerine, and leno from linen. Here's an (ever-expanding) glossary of terms:

Aerophane - A filmy, transparent fabric often used for oversleeves or modesty inserts.

á la Guillotine - A rather grisly, peculiar adjective for a gown made entirely of scarlet fabric, used during the 1790s in France.

Bandeau (pl. Bandeaux) - a narrow band, worn either on the head to confine the hair, or on a dress for decoration.

Biggin-A large muslin cap, like a mob cap, with a frilled edge worn by mature women for informal daywear.

Blond Lace - A lace made of a fine mesh with patterns worked in silk. Blond lace was not necessarily white or ecru in colored; it could be dyed other colors such as black or green.

Bombazine (or Bombasine, Bombazeen) - A twilled fabric with a very dull finish. It was commonly dyed black, making it an ideal fabric for mourning garments.

Bonnet - Technically, a bonnet is a head covering that is tied onto the head. A hat does not have ties. A bonnet is more "constructed" or stiff in shape than a flimsy cap (see Cap below).

Bretelles - Literally, from the French for "suspenders." You'll see the term applied to a scarf or sash worn "en bretelles" - the scarf or sash is worn around the neck, crossed over the bosom (or passed through a slider or ring) and tied behind at the waist.

Brides - Literally "reins", from the French. Ribbons on bonnets resembling bridle reins.

Busk - A rigid piece of steel, wood, ivory or silver (in tropical climates-it didn't rust or rot!) inserted into a pocket in the front of a corset to maintain the wearer's unbending posture. The busk was as long as the corset.

Buta - The Indian word for "pinecone." The tear-drop shaped design woven into true Kashmir shawls is a stylized pinecone design (today it's commonly known as a paisley-see below.)

Calash - A corruption of the word "calèche" - a horse-drawn carriage with a collapsible hood that could be drawn up to cover the occupants. A calash was a type of bonnet worn at the turn of the 19th century. It consisted of a series of wire hoops covered with fabric, much like the carriage hood after which it is named. Oddly, it was fashionable to have a black silk calash lined in pink, even with vivid magenta or fuchsia satin.

Cambric - Very fine, thin linen.

Cap - An indoor or outdoor, day or evening, soft head covering, usually muslin or lawn, which tied under the chin, or was secured en marmotte with a small scarf tied over the head and under the chin. See the Caps, Capotes and Cornettes page for illustrations.

Capote - A transition between a bonnet and a cap. A head covering with a stiffened brim and a soft, pouch-like fabric caul. See the Caps, Capotes and Cornettes page for illustrations.

Capuchin - A short hooded cape. After the hood worn by various orders of monks.

Cashmere - See Kashmire below.

Caul - The portion of a cap or cornette which actually covers the head, as distinguished from the brim or edge ruffle.

Ceinture - From the French. Belt, sash or waistband.

Chemise - A loose-fitting, long, straight shirt with short sleeves worn under the stays as an undergarment.

Chemise á la Reine - Popularized by the unfortunate queen, Marie Antoinette circa 1780, this was an all-in-one garment pulled on over the head and fastened with a simple drawstring neck and sometimes a sash tied under the bosom. It was the forerunner of the simple white muslin round gown that replaced the two-piece robe and petticoat combination.

Chemisette - A sleeveless shirt, much like a dickey, used to fill in the neckline of a gown.

Chip (as in Chip Straw) - A very coarse straw used for women's hats and bonnets.

Cording (or Corded Tucks) - The technique of passing a narrow cotton cord through a pleat or tuck in the fabric to provide stiffening. It was commonly used in the latter part of the Regency, when the hems of dresses were more elaborated embellished. Corded tucks on the bottom edges of petticoats provided the stiffening necessary to hold out the heavier skirts. Cording was also used extensively in corset construction to provide firm, supple support rather than using the stiffer steels or whalebones.

Cornette - A soft, unstructured head covering, much like a cap, in which the side pieces extend over the ears to fasten under the chin (unlike a bonnet, which ties with ribbons or the like). See the Caps, Capotes and Cornettes page for illustrations.

Crape (or Fr. crèpe) - A thin crinkled silk, cotton or wool. During the regency period "crape" was used as a universal term for this time of textured fabric. By the 1830s, however, the term "crape" denotes exclusively the black silk fabric associated with full mourning (e.g., used to drape bonnets, made into armbands, etc.) while "crepe" referred more generally to the crinkle-surfaced fabric used for any sort of fancy evening dress or bonnet decoration.

Crepe Lisse - A smooth silk gauze, without crimping.

Divorce Corset - No, it's not what you think! A strange corset design of the early nineteenth century, it had a metal triangle fixed point upward into the front of the corset to separate the breasts, thus "divorcing" one from the other. It was not a long-lived fad (must have been really uncomfortable). From Regency Etiquette-The Mirror of Graces published by A Lady of Distinction in 1811 comes this comment: "(...)The next ill-named thing I have to describe is the article of apparel called the divorce. This title is even more shocking than the foregoing: and I confess I should not think the woman who could have the face to enquire for it far from giving a specimen of different meaning to the same word in a different place. This supposed auxiliary to female loveliness is, like its type in Doctors' Commons, designed, most unnaturally, to separate what the hands of their Creator brought into the most graceful union. It consists of a piece of steel or iron, of a triangular form, curved on each side. This formidable breastplate (...) is covered with soft materials; and thus bedded, place in the center of the chest to divide the breasts (...)."

Domino - Not really everyday dress, but rather an enveloping garment for men or women, with a hood, worn over evening attire to a masquerade party. A domino was originally the name for the habit of a French priest, so named for the contrasting white hood lining to the black garment.

Douillette-According to an 1835 French dictionary, a douillette is a "Vêtement de soie ouaté, qu'on met par-dessus les autres, en hiver." (a garment of quilted silk, which is worn over others, in winter). It was a long-sleeved, high necked garment with a long front fastening, much like a redingote. "Douillette" is also an adjective meaning "soft, yielding, tender or delicate." It's often used to describe country inns in glossy advertisements and to sing the praises of bed pillows. (See the Douillette page for pictures of douillettes.)

v Drawers - Surprise! Regency women didn't commonly wear these until the end of the era. Drawers are underwear, made with two legs down to the knee. Since these were worn under a corset and petticoat, drawers had no crotch seam (it would have necessitated undressing completely to pull them off otherwise). Regency ladies wore....nothing! See also Pantalettes below.

False Sleeves - To change the look of an outfit, or to facilitate washing the forearms and cuffs of a gown which got dirty first, many gowns had detachable fine lawn sleeves. These were tacked onto the end of the gown's shorter sleeves.

Fichu - A triangular kerchief or scarf worn around or tucked into the neckline of a dress.

Fustian - A term from the 1600s. A coarsely textured cotton fabric imitating the more expensive silk velvet.

Hat - Technically, a head covering which sits on the head without being tied on, in contrast with a bonnet which ties under the chin.

Kashmir - (or Cashmere) The name of a region in India which gave its name to the spectacularly soft fabric woven from the fleece of a mountain goat. Napoleon's soldier's brought shawls made of cashmere back from their campaigns, and they were an instant fashion hit.

Leno - A fine cotton fabric (though the name certainly sounds as though it should be linen). Leno is also the term for a particular type of one-over-one weave in which the weft threads are twisted together as they pass over and under the warp, producing a characteristic creped texture.

Levantine - a very finely twilled fabric, usually silk, in which the typical diagonal ridges can hardly be seen.

Mary Stuart (or Mary Queen of Scots) Cap - A very fashionable style of cap ca. 1808-1810 which dipped to a peak at the center front. It was typical of the gothic fashion trend, meant to suggest the last sixteenth and early seventeenth century period.

Mitts - Fingerless gloves, of cotton, lace or leather. Mitts could be short to the wrist, or come all the way up over the elbow.

Muff - A tubular, padded roll of fur, feathers or other luxurious fabric used to keep a lady's hands warm. Muffs were often enormous. They went in and out of style during the regency.

Mull - Fine plain weave cotton fabric, much like muslin.

Muslin - a very fine cotton fabric, with a simple 1-over-1 open weave. Originally imported from India, it temporarily replaced silks as the desired fabric for fashionable wear. It could command prices up to 30 shillings the yard, as much as the silks.

Nankeen - A corruption of "Nanking." A yellowish brown sturdy cotton fabric used for men's work breeches or children's play clothes.

Norwich Shawl - A sort of British-made woven shawl, imitating the higher priced true cashmere shawls.

Paisley - a city in England which gained renown for its high-quality reproduction cashmere shawls. The name "paisley" was given to the original Indian buta or pinecone design typical of these shawls.

Palantine - a long, narrow stole, often made of fur, very much like a boa. Worn draped around the neck. See also Tippet.

Pantalettes (or Pantalets) - Worn by the more daring of ladies in the latter years of the Regency, pantalettes were a slightly scandalous undergarment borrowed from menswear that was meant to be seen. Pantalettes differed from drawers in that the legs came all the way to the ankle and were decorated with ruffles and lace. "We were insulted by the presence of [Lady] Charlotte [Lindsay] in a green silk Spencer, green silk boots, and trowsers [i.e., pantalettes] to the ankle much below the petticoat." (Fron an 1817 letter from Lady Stanley) In some cases, pantalettes were constructed as two separate pieces, and held up very inadequately as this quote would imply: "They are the ugliest things I ever saw: I will never put them on again. I dragged my dress in the dirt for fear someone would spy them. My finest dimity pair with real Swiss lace is quite useless to me for I lost one leg and did not deem it proper to pick it up, and so walked off, leaving it in the street behind me, and the lace had cost six shillings a yard. I saw that mean Mrs. Spring wearing it last week as a tucker. (...) I hope there will be a short wearing of these horrid pantalets, they are too trying. Of course, I must wear them for I cannot hold up my dress and show my stockings, no one does." (A lady's complaint from 1820, Two Centuries of Costume in America, quoted by C. Willet Cunnington)

Pelerine - a short cape worn over the shoulders as outerwear. From the French Pelerin or Pilgrim.

Pelisse - An outergarment or coat, for either men or women. Pelisses could have long sleeves or no sleeves at all. The pelisse was fitted across the chest and could be any length between mid thigh and ankle. Pelisses were often trimmed with fur or military-style frogging and braiding.

Petticoat-This can refer to either an undergarment (worn with a chemise and stays under a gown, not meant to be seen) or to the skirt portion of a garment which is meant to be seen under a robe or overdress. In the latter case (more common before 1800), the petticoat would have been a high waisted skirt of dress fabric held up by narrow straps that went over the shoulders. The skirt of the robe worn over the top would be open to the waist in front to show off the petticoat, and would cover the bodice and arms. In some cases the petticoat was also called a "slip."

Plait (Plaits, Plaited) - Pleats of fabric. It sounds like it should have something to do with braiding hair, but it doesn't.

Pocket-From the pre-regency era. A pocket was a flat bag, often embroidered, which was tied around the waist, over the stays. The ladies' garments had slits in the side seams to allow access to the pocket.

Purse - (See also Ridicule) A replacement for the old-fashioned pocket. Purses were carried, often made of a tube of netted material with a metal ring which slid down to close the purse opening, commonly termed a "miser's purse).

Redingote-from the French corruption of "riding coat." Originally a fitted, double-breasted man's coat with wide flat cuffs and collar, it was adopted in the 1780s by "scruffy chic" French men to express their admiration of all things English, particularly the government. The word "riding coat" turned into "redingote", and the garment was then exported back to England, where it was incarnated as a long, fitted woman's coat, belted and open in the front to show off the skirt of the dress underneath.

Reticule - See Ridicule, which was the term actually applied during the regency period.

Ridicule -The clinging, lightweight cotton gowns of the regency precluded the old-fashioned pocket (see Pocket above). Instead, ladies now carried a small drawstring bag on long strings, over their wrists, to hold their personal belongings. See the Reticules? Ridiculous! page for pictures of a variety of Ridicules.

Rouleau (pl. Rouleaux) - A dress hem decoration used during the latter part of the regency when dress hem decoration became more elaborate. A tube of fabric, often contrasting with the dress fabric, was lightly stuffed, and sewn to the hem of the dress. It was used as a decoration and as a means of stiffening the hem to hold out the heavier skirts.

Ruching - From the French "to gather". Ribbons or tubes of lightweight fabric were often gathered and sewn to skirts, bodices or hats for decoration.

Sarsenet - A twilled fabric which uses different colors in the warp and weft, thus allowing the fabric to subtly change colors as the fabric moves (variously, sarsnet, sarcenet).

Sash - A long ribbon or scarf worn around the high waisted gowns, which could provide a splash of color on the white muslin gowns. Sashes of pale blue and pink seem to be particularly associated with very young ladies, and were gradually supplanted by the more tailored belt.

Shift - An undergarment, usually of fine linen or cotton. A shift was like a long, straight shirt with short sleeves worn under the stays. The word "shift" was actually considered vulgar at this time; the preferred word was Chemise.

Slip-See Petticoat.

Spencer - A long-sleeved, short jacket named after Lord Spencer (who allegedly burned the tails off his tail coat when he stood too close to the fire, thus creating the new short jacket style!)

Stays - A corset. More correctly called a pair of stays, since it was originally made in two pieces laced together.

Stomacher - Pre-regency. A stomacher was an ornately worked, stiffened piece of fabric worn (where else?) over the stomach. Actually, it was a detachable ornament that was fastened onto the front of a Robe over the front closure. During the latter years of the Regency, the fashion for an ornate bodice revived the antique stomacher, though the term was also applied to any ornate triangular-shaped bodice insert (it generally extended across the wide neckline, tapering to a point at the waist). From the Lady's Monthly Museum, January 1809: "In full dress, the antique stomacher has again made its appearance, and is likely to be generally adopted; it is chiefly composed of satin, with gold or silver embroider, and suitable cords and tassels."

Tippet - A small capelet for covering the shoulders, of either fur or trimmed muslin.

Van Dyck (or vandyke) - A style of collar or trim. Named after the Flemish painter Sir Anthony Van Dyck (1599-1641) Vandyke lace collars, or a van dyked edging to a garment trim was popular in the later years of the Regency period. It was particularly associated with the English Gothic style. In all these cases, the edging or lace was dentillated, having jagged or triangular tooth-like projections.

References:

_English Women's Clothing in the Nineteeth Century: A Comprehensive Guide_, by C. Willett Cunnington (ISBN 0486263231)

_Patterns of Fashion, Vol. I_. by Janet Arnold (ISBN 0-333-13606-3)

_Revolution in Fashion: 1715 - 1815_, edited by Jean Starobinski (ISBN 1558590722)

_The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire: 1789-1815_ by Katell le Bourhis, editor. (ISBN 0870998707)